Behavior and Training

Behavior Routine Earning Your Puppy's Respect Playing With Your Puppy Socializing Your Puppy Schedules Preventive Training Groundwork For Good Behavior Training Tips Housebreaking Crate Training Puppy Chewing Biting & Chewing Learning Not To Jump Excessive Barking Digging Fear of Thunder

Behavior Routine

Puppies like a routine - especially if it involves good food, lots of loving and plenty of exercise. You will like it, too. Getting your puppy into a routine helps speed up the housetraining process, and also makes it easier to set aside time in your day to give your incredible puppy proper care and attention.

Some schedules to set:

• Establish a spot outdoors where your puppy relieves himself.
• With a leash, take him to that spot every time. That eliminates the guesswork. He will know it a business trip, not a pleasure trip.
• Give food and water at the same time every day. About 15 minutes after eating, take him out.
• Schedule training and exercise. A 30-45 minute walk every day can aid in preventing destructive behavior like chewing or digging. It also helps the two of you become closer.

Earning Your Puppy's Respect

Your puppy is a pack animal, and he still follows the call of the wild. Your family is your puppy's "pack." Who will be the leader and who will be the follower?

There are some ways to set yourself and your family up as "top dog." You want to earn your puppy's respect. That can mean being tough, but always fair.

Never hit your dog. Never scold for something your puppy did a while ago. Your puppy will have no idea what the problem is and will think that you are mad for no reason. Only correct your dog when caught in the act.

To make yourself look like a leader:

• Share resources, only after the dog has complied with your leadership.  Such as asking for a sit or down stay before going for a walk or before being feed.
• Be consistent in your training.
• Also use tone of voice to communicate. A high pitch is exciting and playful. A normal tone is like a bark - direct and commanding. A low growl is a warning. With practice, you can make your puppy understand your mood.

Playing with a puppy is more than great fun. It helps to develop a bond between you and the pup, and it uses up puppy energy in a positive way. Your job when playing is to establish rules for the games to help your puppy's training and to avoid creating behavior problems as your puppy matures.

If you play tug-of-war with your puppy, you are playing a great game that fosters team work.  Although it is important to have rules which will help develop the proper use of teeth and will establish you as the leader in the game. The first rule is that the tug item is the only spot for the pup’s mouth.  If the pup gets your hand or cloths stop the game at least for a few seconds before starting again.  The pup will soon learn that the only correct place for their mouth is on the tug toy.  The second rule is to learn to release the tug on command.  If the pup will not release the tug, stop wiggling the tug, and they will eventually get bored and release the tug.  The third rule is that the pup can only go after the tug when you say it is OK.  This establishes more control from the time you ask for the release of the toy, until you say the game can start again.  Since you control the Tug-of-war game this establishes you as the leader.  As your pup matures you can start to ask for a down or sit before resuming the tug game to add another dimension to the game.  This teaches the pup to respond to obedience commands even when they are excited.  All these great benefits form a simple game.  When tugging, keep in mind not to pull the pups head up at an angle, due to this putting stress on their spinal cord.

A great game for exercise is fetch.  A great game for developing mental ability, nose skills and for owner name recognition is hide and seek.  One person stays with the dog while the other hides.  The dog will learn reasoning skills looking for their owner, they also usually start to use their nose in the search and you can start pairing a name with the person that is hiding.

Puppies also like the game chase.  I do not recommend chase due to the pup being in charge of this game, and you will usually run out of steam before the pup.   Be warned that the pup will usually go to great length to entice you into playing, such as grabbing your underwear and running around the house.  Resist all temptations to chase, instead head to the fridge to get a treat to reward the pup for bringing the coveted item to you.

Some puppies tend to be biters. You are reinforcing this bad habit when you allow your puppy to bite you during play time. Never wiggle your fingers or hand in a teasing way at your puppy or encourage it to attack you. Such "attack games" may seem cute when your puppy is little, but the end result is usually an adult dog who bites.  Instead play with the pup using toys. This allows the pup to chew and bit, but only when directed towards a pre-approved toy.

When your puppy attempts to bite you, say ouch and stop playing for a short time. If your puppy continues to bite, give them a time out preferable in a crate in another room.  

Other fun things to due with your pup are teaching simple tricks and just going for walks. All these activities establish a bond between you and your puppy.

When a puppy jumps on visitors or climbs all over people, this behavior is often dismissed as "friendly as a puppy." However, climbing and jumping are not friendly or cute as a puppy matures. Teach your puppy to sit when greeting people. When it responds to the "sit" command, reward it with lots of praise.

Whenever you give a command, maintain eye contact and remember the importance of your tone of voice. Do not laugh at a misdeed as you say "no" or add in an amused tone of voice comments like "such a naughty puppy."

It's helpful if all family members work together to help your puppy establish good habits. If your family contains young children, supervised all interactions between the pup and child.  Both the pup and child need to learn mutual respect for each other.

Start to socialize your pup right away.  Do not wait until they have had their last puppy vaccination.  It is important to introduce them to many different people and places to help develop a confident outgoing pup.  

Attend obedience or agility classes.  Even if your puppy is well-behaved, its good behavior can be reinforced through classes. If you are having training problems, professional trainers can help you gain control of your puppy as the first step toward solving these problems.

Dog classes are offered by many organizations such as humane societies, kennel clubs and community colleges. You can also ask your veterinarian to recommend a dog school.   

Two final thoughts:
A tired puppy is a good puppy and the best time to stop bad habits is before they start.

Socializing Your Puppy

Many times I've heard a prospective dog owner say "I want the same breed as my friend's dog. It has a marvelous temperament and does all kinds of tricks." Or, "I'm going to get an "all-American mutt". They're better dogs."

Even with a promising genetic potential or the characteristics that fit your profile of the ideal puppy, the kind of dog your puppy becomes will largely be determined by how you socialize it. The experiences a puppy encounters in its new environment are key factors in shaping its personality and temperament as an adult.

A puppy's socialization begins with its mother and litter mates and continues as it is placed in a new home and, to the puppy, a strange environment. Behavioral studies show that a key period of socialization for puppies to humans is from six to eight weeks. This is the time when the mother usually weans her puppies. The puppy's nervous system is reaching the structural and functional capacities of an adult dog. Eight weeks is also the time a puppy is normally placed in its new home. It's ready to learn and intensive socialization should begin.

Socializing your puppy means providing quality time. Give it lots of attention and affection. Pet it and call it by its chosen name. Introduce it to your neighbors and service people such as the mail carrier and others who come to your home regularly. Show children how to hold and pet it. Socializing your puppy to other dogs is important, but this does not mean letting it run free in the neighborhood. Give it the opportunity for safe, controlled interaction with dogs whose owners you know and be sure the dogs are immunized.

As your puppy explores its new environment, it may inadvertently damage some items by chewing. This is part of its exploration. If your puppy damages something or has an accident, do not punish it or speak harshly to it unless you catch it in the act. Even then, punishment should be administered carefully. The only thing a puppy learns from harsh or untimely punishment is to fear you. Begin to introduce it to basic commands, "come," "sit," and "stay." Praise it for positive responses.

In socializing your puppy, remember that the "pack instinct" every dog inherits must be controlled. Your puppy will test you and other family members by attempting to establish dominance as leader of the pack. All family members should cooperate in establishing and enforcing a code of conduct for your puppy. To help it understand that it must obey the rules of the house, be consistent in reprimanding and in praising it. Eye contact and a firm "no" usually deter an undesirable activity.

Utilize every opportunity to socialize your puppy. Make feeding time a happy experience by praising your puppy for being a "good dog" as you place its dish on the floor. Considerable puppy-owner bonding can occur through positive feeding experiences.

Feeding can also aid in training your puppy. As you place its food dish on the floor, give the command, "Come," preceded by the name you have chosen for it. This introduces your puppy to an obedience command and helps teach it to respond to its name.

As your puppy settles into its new home, it may encounter new situations which will be potentially stressful to it. Helping your puppy adjust to these situations minimizes future behavior problems. You may find that your puppy is frightened by loud noises. During a thunderstorm, fireworks or when appliances are operating, such as the dishwasher or vacuum sweeper, play with your puppy as you normally do or pet and reassure it that the noises are simply "business as usual." Reward it with a dog snack for being calm during the noise.

Gradually accustom your puppy to being left alone. Begin with brief periods of separation and gradually increase the time. When unattended, leave your puppy in its crate or in an area where it cannot do any damage. Give it a favorite chew bone and/or a favorite toy to help prevent boredom.

As you socialize and train your puppy, remember that puppies are eager to please. Reward your puppy for good behavior by praising it. A little praise goes a long way in helping your puppy become an endearing companion.

What is the potential for socializing dogs who have had minimum exposure to people and other dogs during their first three months? The chances of turning such a dog into a family pet depend upon the amount of time the owner is committed to spending with the dog. Considerable time and patience are musts. It can be done, but it is not an easy task.

A final thought
Consistency among all family members in introducing a puppy or an older dog to social skills is essential. In addition to consistency, please remember the three P's: patience, persistence and praise.

Schedules

Because dogs/puppies are creatures of habit, schedules are very important. You need to schedule when to feed, water, exercise and take your dog/puppy outdoors to eliminate. You will want to get your new friend housebroken very quickly and, without a schedule, housebreaking can be a very long drawn-out ordeal.

If you know when he ate and filled his bladder up with water you will have a pretty good idea when he will need to be taken outdoors to eliminate. You will also be training his digestive system as well, which will help take some of the guesswork out of housebreaking. Remember preventive training - it's always best to be thinking ahead. Take your dog outside when you think he might have to eliminate, rather than wait too long and run the risk of your puppy/dog having an accident indoors. The more times your puppy/dog eliminates outdoors where you want him to, the slimmer the chance for him to have an accident indoors. The clearer the picture to the dog/puppy, the quicker they will catch on to what you want from them. They really want to please you and you can show them how to do it.

Always accompany your dog/puppy outdoors. That way, you can take him to a pre-selected area in your yard to eliminate in, therefore doing away with the habit of smelling the whole yard to find the desired area to eliminate. You will also be assured that your dog/puppy has eliminated before bringing him indoors, and you can praise him.

Lack of exercise can cause dogs/puppies to exhibit destructive chewing behavior because they become bored or are trying to burn off excess energy. Taking your dog/puppy for a 30-45 minute walk can help socialize him, give you both something to do together (bonding), and what a great way to exercise.

Preventive Training

Preventive training means you try to prevent your dog from exhibiting inappropriate behavior by keeping an eye on him when he is with you, or by keeping him in his crate or a puppy/dog-proofed area when you cannot keep an eye on him.

The methodology behind this type of training is if your dog does not get an opportunity to exhibit an unwanted behavior, you do not have to modify his behavior or use negative training methods. This type of training requires more participation from the owner as far as constant supervision and consistency, but in the long run preventive training is far less stressful on both owner and dog. This training method has two advantages: 1) sets you up immediately as the pack leader and 2) expedites the bonding between you and your new friend.

If you bring your new puppy home and just turn him loose in your house, in a matter of maybe five minutes he will have carried off as much as he could stuff in his little mouth, and chewed up what he could not.

On the other hand, if you chose to train in a preventive manner, you would only allow your puppy or dog in the room you are in and you would have a supply of proper chew toys ready for him when the need arises. If you catch him chewing on something he should not have, such as your draperies, you would distract him by saying "NO" in a very firm tone of voice and then offer him a proper chew toy along with praise so he will associate the praise with the appropriate chew toy. Remember dogs/puppies understand about three tones of voice along with body language and eye contact. For example:

• High-pitched, excitable tones would be very effective for motivating your dog/puppy (for coming to you when he is called or for heeling properly). This tone also reminds him of his litter mates (this is why children have a difficult time winning the respect of a dog/puppy, since they sound like equals).
• Matter-of-fact tones are excellent for giving commands to your dog/puppy (same tone as a bark - calm, direct, no urgency).
• Lowered tones which would simulate a growl from mom (which means whatever it is you are doing, stop it now). Remember, yelling or striking your dog/puppy will only confuse him and cause him to mistrust you.

Dogs/puppies do not understand being hit or grabbed. They will only learn they cannot trust you or to fear you. They will understand direct eye contact, tones in your voice or your body language, so use it to your advantage.
Direct eye contact can mean you are looking at your dog lovingly and he will exchange your glance. Or when giving a dog a good long stare in the eyes after he has just jumped on you and you have told him "OFF" the stare means "I mean business."

What about body language? Do you have a puppy who cowers when you approach him, maybe even squats and urinates just a little? You do not hit him, so why does he do this? The way you move toward a dog can be a threat in itself. Are you a lot bigger than the dog? Do you move quickly? Do you bend towards him? Why not try to encourage the dog to come to you, squat down on his level so you are not so threatening; use a piece of his dog food or a favorite toy to convince him to come closer. Pet him when he gets very near you (do not reach out), make sure you praise him for showing courage.

All too often people console their dog/puppy when he shows signs of being frightened, which is a normal human reaction. However, to a dog/or puppy, this only confirms his fear. For example, your child drops a metal lid from a cooking pan onto the hard surface of the kitchen floor. Before you can blink an eye, your dog/puppy has thrown himself under the nearest piece of furniture shaking uncontrollably. Instead of pulling him out and consoling him (which would be the same as saying to your dog/puppy "It's okay to be afraid"), try enticing him out with a treat, laugh, be positive. Your dog/puppy will pick up on your mood. Show him he has nothing to fear.
 

Groundwork For Good Behavior

This is an impressionable time for your puppy. It is when he can pick up good and not-so-good habits, like jumping on people.

Spend lots of time with your puppy. The more loving you give now, the stronger the bond you'll have later. Brush daily, handle his ears and paws, and open his mouth for inspection. It will pay dividends when the vet needs to do it for real.

In the first days after getting home, focus on getting your dog comfortable. That means getting into a routine. Once you have dealt with those things, you will have plenty of time to work on other behavior issues.

Training Tips

Socialization
What your puppy learns about people and his environment now will stay with him for the rest of his life. From his fourth to twelfth week a puppy acquires almost all of his adult sensory, motor and learning abilities. The more loving interaction you establish now, the stronger the bond your dog will have with you later. Plan to spend at least two periods a day playing with your puppy. Use playtime to teach your puppy the basic training commands.

As soon as your veterinarian says it's safe, you should also begin exposing your puppy to as much of the outside world as possible. Introduce your pup to a variety of positive experiences. Visit three new places a week and introduce him to five new people at each place (find a variety of people). Take your pup on regular car rides-use a carrier to insure safer driving.

Puppies may be predisposed to developing phobias between 8 and 11 weeks of age. During this time, you may want to be cautious when exposing your puppy to particularly stressful experiences, like large crowds and unusually loud noises. If he does become frightened, reassure him in a cheerful voice and pass it off quickly. Keep in mind, your puppy will sense feelings from you, so keep your response fairly matter-of-fact. Too much attention to a frightening experience may actually encourage a phobia.

Brush your pup daily with lots of affection and reassurance to make it a special time for both of you. At the same time, handle your pup's feet and ears and open his mouth for inspection. Massage him all over. If the pup fusses, say "no" firmly. When he is quiet, talk to him in a soft, pleasant voice. Similarly, teaching your puppy to allow you to wipe his paws now will be a real asset when he's full grown, bounding inside with wet feet on a rainy day!

Leash Training Fundamentals
Complete leash training is a gradual process. However, the fundamentals of leash training are an essential part of basic puppy training. Begin by having your puppy wear a collar. She may resist this at first but do not give in; for the safety of your puppy this is one rule that must not be broken. Once your puppy is used to the collar, begin letting her drag her leash around the house, under your supervision. When it's potty time, guide the puppy to her potty place on her leash. Get her used to walking on your left side by simply placing her there each and every time you take her outside. Most puppies learn to love their leash since it's a signal they're going outside - and puppies love to explore!

Heel
Once your puppy is used to her leash, you can introduce the command, "Heel." Stand with your puppy at your left side and start your walk. Talk to your puppy and keep her focused on you by making yourself the most interesting thing in her line of sight. When she becomes distracted and runs ahead, as she undoubtedly will, call her name and say, "Heel," and make an abrupt U-turn to the right. She will find herself behind you and hurry back to your side. Praise her and repeat. Make it fun for your puppy to heel with your praise and excitement and she will learn quickly.

Come
This basic training command should be started from the first day you bring your puppy home. As with all the basic commands, you should announce your intention by calling his name first, followed by the one word command - i.e., "Max, come!" Make the invitation as inviting as possible by using an enthusiastic voice. When he stumbles to you, praise generously. If he doesn't come immediately, give a tug on his leash, then guide him to you.

If you're having trouble getting your puppy to come, examine your technique. Are you using his name, getting his attention? Squat down to his level and put a lot of energy into an enthusiastic command. Praise lavishly and repeat quickly - puppies typically enjoy learning to come to their leader. Never use "Come" in an angry tone or to call our puppy for a punishment. "Come" must be seen as a positive behavior.

Sit
Teaching your puppy to sit can keep him out of a world of trouble and do wonderful things for your relationship - and by eight weeks of age, he's ready to learn this basic command. Start by getting your puppy's attention, then using his name and the command, "Max, sit," gently help your dog to a sitting position by folding his back legs under his bottom. Once sitting, praise him. Repeat the exercise often to reinforce the training.

You can also teach "Sit" with a food reward. Using a kibble or treat, show your puppy the food. Once you have his attention, have him follow the treat as you move it slowly up and over his head. As the puppy follows the food, he will have to sit.

"Sit" is an excellent command to teach a puppy for praise. Once it's established in his mind that sitting is the sure way to receive praise, you will never have to worry about your puppy jumping on you or other people for attention.
 

Housebreaking

It's your house. Your puppy has to earn his freedom in it. So, if he frequently relieves himself inside, you will need to curtail that freedom.

You should move to establish an elimination routine as soon as possible. The longer you let the behavior persist, the harder it will be to change.

Tips for traditional housetraining:

• Establish an elimination spot outside. (That takes the guesswork out of the trip).
• Clip his leash to his collar and take him to the spot. Pick a command like "Go potty" or "Hurry up." Praise your puppy for compliance.
• Go inside for food and water. About 15 minutes later, go back out again.
• Maintain a regular feeding, drinking and elimination schedule.
  Don't rule out a bladder infection. Spaying and neutering can help reduce the risk. Talk to your vet.
• Watch for territorial marking. That's not a mistake. Your dog is vying to be leader of the pack - which is your family. Whether you see this behavior inside or out, step up obedience training. Make sure your puppy knows who's boss.

Trouble spots:

• Too much freedom too quickly is the most common error. If your dog has an accident or two, back up and slow down.
• Providing a crate that is too big for your dog encourages your puppy to eliminate in one end and sleep in the other. Also, if you place food and water in the crate, he'll fill up on both and be forced to relieve himself.
• Changing your puppy's diet can cause digestive problems that might result in an accident. Late night snacks and not enough exercise can also lead to accidents.
• Even well-trained puppies have accidents. Clean the area with a pet odor neutralizer so your puppy won't be tempted to repeat the mistake.

Crate Training

Crate training is not putting your dog/puppy in a cage or jail, and you are not being cruel if you follow these tips. Dogs feel secure in small, enclosed spaces, like a den. Dog crates make excellent dens. It is a safe place for him to stay when you're away or when you cannot watch him.

Watch your own dog around home. Where do you find him napping in his deepest sleep? Under the table, desk, chair? Yes, somewhere out of the traffic pattern where he has a roof overhead and a little privacy. A crate offers security, a den with a roof, and a place to call his very own where he can go to get away from it all.

There are basically just a few steps in "crate" training and they are as follows:

• Choose a crate the same size as your puppy/dog. He should only have enough room to stand up, turn around and lie down. His crate is for sleeping or for a safe place to be when you cannot be with him. If you get a huge crate for a small dog, he may eliminate in one end and sleep in the other and you will have defeated the whole purpose of using the crate (dogs do not like to eliminate anywhere where they sleep or eat). If you have a puppy who will grow into a 60-70 lb. dog, you may have to buy two different crate sizes or purchase a crate with a divider you can move as he grows.
• Use a single-word command for your dog to enter his crate, for example, "KENNEL"; throw in a treat or piece of kibble; when the dog/puppy enters, praise him and close the crate door. Increase the time he spends in the crate before you let him back out. Remember, your dog still needs time to play and eliminate. Maintain a regular schedule of trips outdoors so as not to confine him too long.
• As a general guide, your puppy can stay in his crate comfortably for as many months as he is old plus one month (2 mth old pup + 1 mth = 3 hours in his crate).

Always take your puppy/dog outside to the same area in your backyard to eliminate on a leash so you can praise him when his job is finished. This will take the guesswork out of his visits to the backyard. And don't forget to play with him and exercise him. He needs this kind of stimulation for his mental and physical wellness.
Remember, your dog or puppy is a pack animal by nature and he will be looking to you for direction. Your job as a responsible pet owner is to give him that direction so you can enjoy each other as true companions should.

Puppy Chewing

Be aware that scolding your puppy after it has misbehaved is fruitless. If you catch the puppy in the act of chewing, remove the object with a very firm "no." Let the puppy sense, through the firmness of your voice, that chewing is unacceptable. Correct your puppy quietly and firmly each time you catch him chewing. Realize that chewing is natural behavior for a puppy. It eases the discomfort of teething and is part of the puppy's exploring its environment through the sense of taste. Give your puppy safe chew toys such as a Kong® toy or hard rubber toys. Avoid toys containing parts that might come loose and be swallowed such as plastic eyes or metal balls. Praise him when he plays with his chew toys. Never give the puppy a special sock or slipper to chew or a toy that looks like a slipper. Puppies cannot tell the difference between the toy and the real thing. Treat objects your puppy chews with hot pepper or with Bitter Apple for furniture, a bad tasting product available at pet stores. Boredom may also lead to chewing. Be certain your puppy enjoys play periods and enjoys walks with family members. Before leaving your puppy alone, take him for a walk or spend time playing with him. He will have less energy for chewing. Confine the puppy to his crate or to a small area, such as the kitchen. A pet gate may be useful in confining the puppy. Leave drinking water and chew toys. 

Biting & Chewing

Dogs need to chew to relieve stress and excess energy. In fact, puppy teething is a natural part of development. If your dog chews on something that is off-limits, say "no" or "eh" in a low voice. Then give your dog a safe chew toy. Praise him for good behavior. Remember to give your dog safe chew toys instead of old household items like old shoes, because that could encourage him to also chew on new shoes.

Most often this type of behavior is exhibited by puppies, small dogs, or dogs which have never been trained not to jump on people. Dogs will jump up on people for one reason: to get attention from you. This is why when he is a puppy you will want to avoid petting him when he jumps up. Teach your puppy or dog to "sit" for attention or praise of any kind. When he jumps on you, use your lowered tone of voice and lean towards the dog saying "OFF." He will have no choice but to back away from you and when he does, teach him to sit only after he has his bottom firmly planted on the ground. Offer him calm praise for obeying you. Soon all you will have to say to your dog is "sit" and he will comply readily because he knows he will be rewarded.

It is easy to do. Here's how:

• Avoid petting when your puppy jumps. That encourages him to do it again.
• When your puppy jumps, lean towards him and, in a low voice, say "Off."
• When he backs away, tell him to sit.
  Praise calmly for sitting.

We do not support keeping your Giant Schnauzer outside for extended times alone. If he is with you, inside or outside, barking will not be an issue.

Barking often is a behavior problem that is a result of loneliness or boredom if a dog is housed outside or left alone for long periods of time. When it barks, its owners call to it to stop barking and scold it. In so doing, they are providing the attention the dog seeks. It has discovered that if it barks, the owners respond and the dog considers it a barking game.

Dogs housed inside who are left alone may suffer from separation anxiety. Some may show their fear and resentment by barking. The ideal way to prevent this problem is to train a puppy to be left alone. Similar training can be applied to an older dog, but more time and patience may be required. Put the puppy in a room by itself. Say "quiet" and leave the room. If the puppy barks, return, say "quiet" and leave again. If the puppy is quiet for a brief period, return and praise it. Extend your time away from the puppy and, upon returning, praise it for being quiet. With an older dog, leaving the house or apartment may be necessary because the dog may pick up your scent and is sensitive to familiar noises.

Some dogs bark to protect their territory and a "bark/reward" cycle may be established. A dog barks at a letter carrier when the mail is delivered. The dog is "rewarded" when the letter carrier leaves. This bark/reward may lead the dog to bark at other service people, neighbors and passersby. For some households this can become a problem.

The bark/reward cycle should be broken. If possible, introduce the dog to people who come to the home regularly. Short conversations with delivery or service people, with the dog present, may solve the problem.

Another solution is a firm "no" or "quiet" when the dog begins barking. If the dog responds by being quiet, praise it briefly. Remember, you have to be present when the dog is barking to give the "quiet" command.

An example of barking for an identifiable purpose is a dog's bark in an invitation to play. This is accompanied by body language — tail-wagging, crouching with the head lowered and hindquarters raised. The dog usually stops barking when its invitation is answered and play begins. If the invitation goes unanswered, the dog gives up and generally stops barking.

A dog may bark to threaten intruders. This is usually a more menacing bark and may be accompanied by growling. The hair on the dog's back and tail may stand on end. Depending upon the situation, you may need to remove the dog to a more secure location or quietly reassure it.

A dog will also bark to warn other dogs or people of danger. This is usually a deep, repeated bark. The dog's tail is motionless and lowered to the ground. The forelimbs may be widely spaced on the ground. The barking generally continues until the source of danger is removed or the dog is taken to safety.

Sometimes pain or illness triggers barking. If a well-behaved dog in its usual environment begins barking or creating other forms of vocalization, a trip to the veterinarian may be in order.

Digging

"If I catch my dog digging in the garden one more time..." Fortunately the thought of taking drastic action gives way to frustration as you try to cope with a dog who digs.

The annoying habit of digging ranks high on the list of behavior problems of dogs. Unfortunately, there is no one answer to solve this particular problem.

In some instances, the instinct to dig is the heritage of the breed. Over the centuries dogs have been bred for a variety of tasks ranging from the close interaction of toy breeds with their owners to sporting dogs who require regular sessions of physical activity. Nordic dogs dig holes to cool themselves. The heritage of terriers (from the Latin, "terra," for earth) has been to dig underground after rodents and small game. Dachshunds were developed to chase badgers into their holes.

Some dogs, regardless of heritage, may be more inclined to dig if they are left alone in the yard for long periods of time. Digging is often the result of boredom and this can be a learned behavior in some dogs.

Companionship is a primary reason for having a dog. Being a companion means forging a bond through regular play and exercise with your dog. Without this stimulation, dogs often turn to digging or other forms of destructive behavior to alleviate their boredom.

The problem of "the digging dog" may go beyond the instincts of the breed or boredom and relate to other problems. A dog that is pushed outdoors after it misbehaves in the house may continue its misbehaving by digging in the yard. Controlling your dog's behavior inside addresses that problem as well as unacceptable digging outside.

A dog left alone may be reacting to the absence of family members. If this is the case, you need to work with your dog to help it tolerate gradually longer absences. Your veterinarian can help you plan this behavior modification training.

During summer months, if your dog digs a hole to cool itself, consider providing a cooler location for it such as an umbrella, or inside the house or basement. If your dog is housed outside, be certain it has access to some shade throughout the day and that fresh drinking water is always available. Some dogs find hot weather comfort in their own wading pools with fresh, cool water.

Some dogs tend to roam and will dig under a fence to get out of the yard. Ideally, a fence should fit tight to the ground or even be buried a few inches underneath to prevent a dog's crawling or digging out from under it.

If your dog is trying to escape, try to determine why it is leaving home. Is it simply bored, or an intact male indulging in sexual wanderlust? Unless you plan a responsible breeding program which includes placing puppies in good homes, neutering is recommended. A neutered dog is generally calm and tends not to wander.

If you find it virtually impossible to discourage your dog from digging, provide it with a "digging area." When your dog digs in this designated area, praise it and reward it with attention or a treat. If your dog digs outside this area and is caught in the act, a firm "no" is usually a deterrent. However, all family members must cooperate and must reprimand the dog only when it is caught digging outside the designated area.

In this aspect of training, as in all others, family members most work together as a team. Giving a variety of verbal commands confuses a dog. One overly indulgent family member can create problems by not cooperating in training a dog. Dogs pick up on this and may use that family member to their advantage.

A final thought
Your dog's behavior is influenced by the lifestyle you maintain for it. Regular walks or play periods with your dog and praise for tricks you teach it will make its life fun and stimulating. Such a dog is less likely to develop annoying behavior problems resulting from boredom.

Fear Of Thunder

To be afraid of thunder is not uncommon among pets. What is unusual is how you might consider helping your dog through these difficult times.

Petting your whining dog in an attempt to comfort may in fact be the wrong thing to do. In essence, you are reinforcing the whining behavior during the storm.

Instead, try distracting the dog by inviting him to do something else and praising that activity. And importantly, make sure your dog is in a safe place in the home away from windows and other glass...just to make sure his fear will not lead to injury.

For the really terrified pet, consult your veterinarian for medications that can be used during a thunderstorm.